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Christmas in Luxembourg

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Clervaux castle
Around the end of November / beginning of December, the "Klees'chen" (cf picture below) can be seen on many occasions as he comes to all the shops, and receives the children for photosessions. Legend has it that "Klees'chen" brought back to life 3 children who were savagely killed by a butcher, ready to be turned into sausages. Being a good-natured children-loving sort of a guy, he promptly resurrected the kids with God's allmighty help ...
"Klees'chen", in fact, is none else but St. Nicholas. During the night of the 5th to the 6th December (his day) he and his counterpart "Hoùseker" (=Black Peter) enter the houses and bring the children presents in the guise of (originally oranges and nuts and the occasional pair of socks) toys which can range from simple Lego to complex computers. The children put out plates on which the legendary figures bestow their gifts. But already days, nay weeks beforehand the children put their shoes daily on the windowsill or in front of their bedroom door, so that "Kleeschen" -who goes his rounds to check on children to see whether they deserve any presents- can drop chocolates and other sweets into them. Hoùseker is dressed in coarse black clothes and he carries sticks with which he is said to chastise naughty children.

On the afternoon of the first Sunday preceeding December 6th (in 2011 that will be on Dec 4, between 2 and 5 pm), "Klees'chen" [and "Hoùseker"] arrive in town at the railway station and dole out sweets to kids on their parade to the City Town Hall (cf picture on the right)
St. Nicholas, known in Luxembourg as Klees'chen, during his yearly festive parade to the City Town Hall
   
As for Christmas itself, you can see that with "Klees'chen" around, Father Christmas has a lot of rivalry. In Luxembourg, the baby Christ is said to bring the Christmas gifts overnight, although the custom probably differs from family to family. In the early evening on Christmas Eve the whole family gathers around the Christmas tree for snacks and talks (A Christmas tree is almost a Must in our country). At midnight many a family goes to Midnight Mass, always a welcome excuse for children to stay up long. The presents which lie under the tree are opened either before or after church.
Since we have our own language in Luxembourg (Lëtzebuergesch), we say "Schéi Chrëschtdeeg" for "Merry Christmas", which transliterates into 'have nice christmas-days'.
Traditional foods over the Christmas period are "Stollen", a kind of fruit loaf with rum as cake and "Bûche de Noël" as icecream (both are in the shape of a log). On Christmas Day the traditional dinner often features Black pudding or civet of hare, or venison, or ..., but it may also consist of turkey like in Britain or the States (The main thing seems to be that there must be millions of calories). After the meal the whole family likes to go for a walk which is particularly nice if there is snow. Boxing Day is spent in a similar fashion, eg eating vast quantities of food, which is done -more often than not- whilst visiting friends and relatives.
Christmas Market in Luxembourg City (Photo © City Tourist Office) title=
During the weeks before Christmas, markets flourish all over the country. From wooden huts that are set up on town and city squares, all sorts of christmassy goods are on sale: locally produced arts and crafts (candles, Christmas trees and decorations, cribs, music, etc), and of course plenty of food and drink to warm you from the inside. The latter include the obligatory mulled wines, as well as the stronger stuff (eg Schnaps, known as "Drëpp"). Foods on sale include various soups (with or without Mettwurscht [a local sausage speciality]), pancakes, Thüringer, ... , plus the unpronounceable: "Gromperekichelcher". The bandstand in the centre of the square is also very much in use: A whole host of local bands, fanfares, choirs, etc, are performing, bringing to life the true Christmas atmosphere.

Christmas Markets 2011 in Luxembourg City will be as follows:

    • from November 25 to January 1 (incl.), the "Christmas Market" will be held on Place d'Armes in the pedestrian centre of the city.
      Open daily from 10:30am till about 8pm; except 24 December from 10:30am to 5pm, also likely to close a little earlier on Jan 1.

    • Advent Market on the Place de Paris: November 25 to December 24, 2011
      (opening times as above, though this is a smaller market than the "Christmas Market")

      More info on the Luxembourg City Christmas markets is on www.winterlights.lu.


      Several more Advent-and Christmas Markets are held in towns and villages throughout the country:
      - Differdange: Town Square
      Crosscountry skiing and sledding as of 10 December.
      December 2nd – December 23rd from 3pm to 7pm, Friday until 8pm. Tel.: (+352) 58 77 1-11

      - Dudelange: Townhall Square
      December 9th – 18th Monday through Friday from 4pm to 8pm, Saturday from 1pm to 9pm and Sunday from 2pm until 7pm. Tel.: (+352) 51 61 21-1

      - Esch-sur-Alzette: Townhall Square
      November 18th - Januar 2nd all day from 11:30am to 7:30pm. Tel.: (+352) 54 16 37

      - Kockelscheuer: ‘Haus vun der Natur’
      November 28th - December 23rd Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 12noon and 1pm to 5:30pm. Tel.: (+352) 29 04 04-1

      - Vianden: Castle
      10 and 11 December from 10am until 7pm. Tel.: (+352) 83 41 08- 1 / 84 92 91

      Smaller Advent-and Christmas markets thoughout the country: Bech-Kleinmacher (Musée “A Possen”, 10/12-11/12 from 11am to 6pm), Clervaux (11/12 from 10am), Diekirch (17/12-18/12), Echternach (09/12-11/12 from 11am to 6pm), Ettelbruck (02/12-04/12), Grevenmacher (10/12-11/12), Leudelange (16/12), Schengen (Castle, 11/12 and 18/12 from 11am to 7pm), Wiltz (Place Festival, 04/12 from 10:30am and in the castle , 09/12-10/12 from 5pm to 11pm)


      See also: Special Christmas season offers from hotels and restaurants (such as candle-light dinners, or music dinners, or special winter rates, or ...
Christmas Market in Luxembourg City
Christmas Market in Luxembourg
Christmas Market in Luxembourg City
Christmas Parade logo ©Cynart
On Sunday, December 11, 2011, is Luxembourg City's big Christmas Parade. Now in its 8th edition it never fails to draw huge crowds.

Decorated floats parade to the sound of marching bands through the city streets in a sea of lights, many of them throwing out candy to the delight of all the children lining the route from the railway station (start at 4:45 pm) to the statue of the "Golden Lady". This year's event promises to eclipse all its predecessors with more than 500 participants, 25 attractions, 9 international bands and in excess of 2.5 tons of candy. No wonder the organisers expect some 50000 visitors!
Christmas Parade - © Cynart


Several "Shopping Sundays" are usually programmed before Christmas.
In 2011 shops will be open from 2 to 6 pm in Luxembourg City on the following
Sundays: December 4, 11 and 18 (i.e. all Sundays in December before Christmas), and January 8, 2011. You can also visit the Cityshopping Info point, located in the "Cercle" building on Place d'Armes, or check the web site at: www.cityshopping.lu . Further details will also be on www.winterlights.lu as of mid-November.

Since Christmas is a time when everyone wants to be with their family, there might be a slight upheaval on opening hours / public transport services during this festive period. Buses and trains in the entire country will run on Christmas and on Boxing day, but according to a "public holidays" schedule (= Jours de fête). Put differently: although there will be less public transport, you won't be stuck altogether. www.cfl.lu or www.sales-lentz.lu has the timetables, or telephone the public transport helpline on +352 2489 2489, should you need to get to/from a particular place.

The Luxembourg City Tourist Office will be closed on both Christmas and Boxing Day, but they will run an [English-language] "City promenade" walking tour through the city at 2 pm on Saturday (meet in front of the office on Place Guillaume). Museums in the city will be closed on Christmas day itself (Saturday), but they will be open on Sunday (Boxing Day).

Luxembourg City in snow

New Year is very much celebrated on New Year's Eve. There are a good dozen different "Bal"s (=dancing) in Luxembourg-city, and many more outside the capital. Around midnight, fireworks reign supreme in the skies, as many a family adds to the general bangs and flashes. We don't so much sing "Auld Lang Syne", 'though of course some gatherings do. The New Year itself is brought in by champagne corks mixing into the general fireworks clatter. There is a lot of kissing and hugging amongst the well-wishing for the New Year, which is of course at midnight sharp.

There is hardly anybody who would not socialise on New Year's Eve, and if there is no family to go to, you can always join one of the dancing crowds, or join one of the many parties that are held all over the country. In fact it often is quite difficult to choose which party to go to, as there are so many, and as one does want to be with the nicest possible crowd on this first night of the New Year. Hence, many a reveller will not decide where to go to until all the options have been heard and offered, which may not be until late in the afternoon of the 31st of December.

The dancings are mostly organised by University students, and even though there is now a 'native' university in Luxembourg, the students from major Universities abroad traditionally tend to organise these. Thus there is a "Bal de Liège", a "Bal de Strasbourg", a "Bal de Zurich", and others. These go on to the wee hours of the morning (5 or 6 am) and a number of cafés (that is the continental version of the pub, not the English eating houses) are open this late too, so you really can revel around the clock.
Vianden castle in snow

 

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Luxembourg Tourist Office - London


last update: November 15, 2011